Water Heater Not Working? Here’s What to Check Before You Call a Plumber

Water Heater Not Working? Here’s What to Check Before You Call a Plumber

A cold shower is a rough way to start the morning. Before you assume the worst and start pricing out a new water heater, take five minutes to run through the checks below — about half the “my water heater is broken” calls we get in Canton turn out to be a tripped breaker, a pilot light that blew out, or a thermostat that got bumped.

Here’s the short answer: if you have no hot water at all, check the power source first (breaker for electric, pilot for gas). If you have lukewarm water or it runs out fast, check the thermostat setting and the age of the unit. If you see water around the base of the tank, shut off the water and call us — that one isn’t a DIY fix.

At Precision Plumbing & Septic, we’ve been handling water heater repair across Canton, Cherokee County, and North Georgia for over 25 years. We do same-day service when we can, and we’ll always tell you straight whether your unit is worth repairing or it’s time to replace it. The walk through below is exactly what we’d ask you to check if you called us right now — and if any of it points to a real problem, give us a ring at (678) 658-3170.

First: What Type of Water Heater Do You Have?

Before you check anything, know what you’re working with. Most homes in Canton and Cherokee County have one of three types:

• Tank-style gas water heater — a tall cylindrical tank with a gas line running to it, usually in a basement, garage, or utility closet. Has a pilot light or electronic ignition.

• Tank-style electric water heater — same shape as gas, but with a power cable and no gas line. Runs off a 240V breaker in your panel.

• Tank less water heater — a small wall-mounted unit, about the size of a briefcase. Heats water on demand. Can be gas or electric.

The troubleshooting steps below are organized by symptom, but the right action often depends on which type you have. If you don’t know, take a quick photo of the unit and the label on the front — it tells you everything (model, fuel type, capacity, manufacture date).

No Hot Water at All? Start Here

When there’s zero hot water coming out of any faucet in the house, the heater isn’t firing. Walk through these in order:

1. Check the breaker (electric units)

Go to your electrical panel and look for the water heater breaker — usually labeled, and typically a double-pole 30-amp breaker. If it’s in the middle position or flipped to off, push it firmly all the way to off, then back to on. If it trips again right away, stop. That’s an electrical fault that needs a professional — don’t keep resetting it.

2. Check the pilot light (gas units)

On older gas water heaters, look through the small viewing window near the bottom of the tank. You should see a small flame. If it’s out, follow the relighting instructions printed right on the unit — every gas water heater has them. If the pilot won’t stay lit, the thermocouple has likely failed. That’s a common, inexpensive repair, but it requires a plumber.

On newer gas units with electronic ignition, there’s no pilot to relight. Check the status light on the front control panel — most units flash a diagnostic code that tells you what’s wrong. Look up the code in the owner’s manual or on the manufacturer’s site.

3. Check the gas supply (gas units)

If your gas range and other gas appliances aren’t working either, you’ve got a supply issue. Check that the shutoff valve on the gas line going into the heater is fully open (the handle should run parallel to the pipe). If your gas is out across the whole house, call your gas company — not us.

4. Check the thermostat setting

Sounds obvious, but it happens. Someone bumps the dial, a kid plays with it, or it gets turned down for a vacation and never turned back up. Set it between 120°F and 125°F — that’s the sweet spot for safety, energy efficiency, and consistent hot water.

Lukewarm Water or Runs Out Fast?

If hot water shows up but it’s not hot enough, or you can’t finish a shower before it goes cold, the heater is partially working but not keeping up. Common causes:

Thermostat set too low

Same fix as above — bump it to 120°F–125°F. Wait an hour and test again.

Sediment buildup in the tank

North Georgia water has a fair amount of mineral content, and over the years sediment settles at the bottom of the tank. It insulates the heating element from the water, so the heater works harder and produces less hot water. If your tank is more than 3 or 4 years old and you’ve never flushed it, this is probably the cause. Tank flushing is a routine maintenance service — we can take care of it during a service call.

Failed dip tube

The dip tube delivers cold water to the bottom of the tank so it can be heated. When it cracks or breaks, cold water mixes with the hot water at the top and you get lukewarm output. This shows up most often in units 6–10 years old.

Failed heating element (electric units)

Electric water heaters have two heating elements — upper and lower. When the lower element fails, you get a small amount of hot water that runs out fast. When the upper element fails, you get no hot water at all. Element replacement is a standard repair.

Undersized for the household

If you recently added family members, started running back-to-back showers, or installed a soaking tub, your existing heater might just be too small. A standard 40-gallon tank serves a family of three pretty well; a family of five usually needs 50–80 gallons or a tank less unit.

Water Around the Base of the Tank? Stop and Call

This one’s different. If you see water pooling at the base of your water heater, there are three possibilities, and one of them is serious:

• Condensation — normal in humid weather, especially on cold inlet pipes. Wipe it up. If it comes back fast, it’s not condensation.

• A leaking valve or fitting — the temperature/pressure relief valve, the drain valve at the bottom, or the cold/hot water connections at the top can all leak. These are usually fixable.

• A failed tank — if the tank itself has rusted through, you’ll see slow seepage from the bottom of the unit. There’s no fixing this. The tank has to be replaced.

Either way, if you see standing water, shut off the cold water supply to the heater immediately (the valve on the cold-side pipe at the top of the tank — turn it clockwise). Then turn off the power or gas. Then call us. A failing tank can dump 40–80 gallons of water into your home if it lets go all at once. We respond to water heater emergencies 24/7 across Canton and Cherokee County — see our emergency plumbing service for details, or just call.

Strange Noises Coming From the Tank?

Popping, rumbling, or banging sounds usually mean sediment buildup. Water gets trapped under the layer of sediment at the bottom of the tank, and when it heats up, steam bubbles fight their way through — that’s the noise. A flush usually fixes it. If you let it go too long, the constant overheating shortens the life of the tank.

Hissing or sizzling on a gas unit can also mean a small leak hitting the burner. That one warrants a call.

Discolored or Smelly Hot Water?

Rust-colored hot water (cold water runs clear) usually means the anode rod in your tank has been used up and the tank itself is starting to corrode. Anode rod replacement is cheap and extends the life of the heater — but if the tank is already rusting, you’re on borrowed time.

Rotten-egg smell in the hot water is bacteria reacting with the anode rod. It’s not dangerous, but it’s unpleasant. Replacing the standard magnesium rod with an aluminum or zinc rod usually solves it.

When to Repair vs. Replace

We get this question on almost every water heater call. Here’s the honest answer:

• Under 8 years old — almost always worth repairing. Most issues at this age (thermocouple, heating element, dip tube, anode rod) are inexpensive fixes.

• 8–12 years old — it depends. If the repair is more than 50% of the cost of a new unit, replacement usually makes more sense. We’ll give you the numbers and let you decide.

• Over 12 years old — replacement is almost always the smart move. Standard tank water heaters are designed for a 10–12 year lifespan in Georgia’s water conditions. After that, you’re paying to repair a unit that’s going to fail again soon.

• Tank is leaking — replace. There’s no economical repair for a tank that’s rusted through.

Check the manufacture date on the label — it’s usually encoded in the serial number. We can decode it for you over the phone if you read it off.

What to Do Before We Arrive

If you’ve worked through the above and you need us to come out, here’s how to make the visit faster:

• Note the model number, serial number, and manufacture date from the label on the front of the unit.

• Note any error codes flashing on the control panel.

• Clear a path to the heater — if it’s in a closet stuffed with boxes, that’s the first 15 minutes of the call.

• If there’s any active leaking, shut off the cold water supply to the heater and turn off the power or gas.

• Have a rough sense of the home’s hot water usage — number of bathrooms, number of people, recent changes — in case we’re sizing a replacement.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long should a water heater last in Georgia?

A standard tank water heater typically lasts 10–12 years in North Georgia, sometimes a couple of years more with regular maintenance (annual flushing and anode rod checks). Tank less units last 18–20 years. Hard water and high sediment shorten lifespan, so flushing the tank annually makes a real difference.

Can I replace a water heater myself?

Technically yes, practically no. Water heater installation involves gas lines or 240V wiring, water connections, venting, and code compliance. In Georgia, most jurisdictions require a permit and inspection. A botched install can void your homeowner’s insurance and create a fire or carbon monoxide risk. Cost-wise, a professional install is usually only a few hundred dollars more than DIY — not worth the risk.

How much does water heater repair cost in Canton, GA?

Most common repairs (thermocouple replacement, heating element, thermostat, anode rod) run $150–$450 depending on the unit and the part. Tank flushing is a routine maintenance service and runs less. We give you the price upfront before any work starts — no diagnostic fees if you go ahead with the repair.

Do you offer same-day water heater service?

Yes — in most cases. If you call us before noon, we can usually get to you the same day for repair, and often for replacement if the unit is a standard size we stock. For emergencies (active leaking, no hot water and a household of five), we move you to the front of the queue. Call (678) 658-3170 and we’ll tell you what we can do.

Should I switch from a tank to a tank less water heater?

Maybe. Tank less units cost more upfront but use 25–35% less energy and last almost twice as long. They’re a strong fit for households of 1–3 with moderate hot water use, or anyone tired of running out mid-shower. They’re less of a fit for large households running multiple showers and the dishwasher at the same time, unless you size up significantly. Happy to walk through the numbers with you on a service call.

Ready to Get Hot Water Back?

Most water heater problems aren’t catastrophes — they’re a tripped breaker, a sediment-clogged tank, or a worn part that’s easy to swap out. Run the checks above first. If it’s not a quick fix, that’s where we come in.

Precision Plumbing & Septic does water heater repair and replacement across Canton, Woodstock, Holly Springs, Ball Ground, and the rest of Cherokee County. Same-day service when we can, owner on every job, and honest pricing before any work starts. Call (678) 658-3170 or book online — we’re available 24/7.